4) A HILL IS A MOUNTAIN WHEN THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE 33

Ipoh residents may love their food, but they also love their exercise. Kelandang "hill" is part of the Kinta chain of mountains, and on weekends is populated by throngs of residents from pre-school to the golden age, some pumping arm weights as they climb. The winding path is lined with endless acreage of vegetation, monkeys swinging from trees, tropical birds chirping away and little temple rest-stops replete with locals lighting incense. The musty scent of sandalwood hangs like limpid wet laundry on a humid day, and no matter how high I climb, I can not elude its odour, now absorbed into my sweaty flesh. Locals believe there are spirits on the 'hill' and pay homage to them through prayer and offerings.

Near the top of Kelandang, I sit on a stone bench and wait for my uncle to join me. The rest area is lined with benches that overlook the cliff top and below onto a panorama of the entire valley with a setting sun poking through from behind lavender hued clouds. I hear spluttering from over the side of the baracade and rush over to see what is the matter. To my surprise there is a small party of elderly locals clambering up the cliff side, (apparently those who do not find the traditional path adequate free-scale the dusty climbs of 'Bald-Man's Peak'.

Although Kelandang is the highest peak in the region, the karstic mountains on the outskirt of town that house the Budhist cave temples are by far the most famous geological formation. Literally burrowing beneath the mountains, the series of caves, each with various temples, series of ornate gold statues and pilgrims are worthy of the acclaim they receive.

In the parking area, hawkers sell garlands of green vegetables, and I did not understand the purpose until we exited one of the cave passages into a naturally formed attrium. To my surprise, there stood a red shingled temple flanked by karstic cliffs on all sides at least 50 storeys high, adjacent a pond filled with lucky turtles. Feeding the turtles, the equivalent of throwing pennies into a fountain.